From Provo,Utah, to Beautiful Colombia
I left the snow and cold of Utah on March 17,2022, for a wonderful trip to Colombia. If anyone tries to tell you you might be one of the 27,000+kidnapped, or robbed, or worse, tell them that it is in the past. The period from 1948-1958 was called El Bogotazo or La Violencia, sparked by the assassination of Bogota's populist mayor Jorge Eliecer Gaitan, by conservatives, which led to the deaths of at least 200,000. The story is complex and tragic. 80% of the drug market was controlled by Escobar, who started by "helping" the people, then became a politician, murdering, and terrorizing. He was protected by the military. When he was shot in 1993, many celebrated the death of the monster, others mourned (as their would-be- provider).When the Treaty was signed between President Santos and the guerillas (who first helped the people by building homes, schools, etc.) and narco-traffickers (FARC) in 2016, just five years ago, Colombia has undergone a great transformation into a clean, safe, modern country with wonderful people, delicious food, beautiful historical and cultural sites, and gorgeous landscapes. In 2013, beautiful Medellin (previously the most violent,with guerrillas and drug lords hiding in the forests and hills) was named the most innovative city of Latin America.
Colombia is one of the richest countries of Latin America in natural resources. It is still a country of great inequality, each residential area (and those who live there) rated at level 1(poorest)-6 (wealthiest), receiving services and paying taxes, etc. accordingly. Still nominally 90% Catholic, church and state have been separate since 1991. Bullfighting is legal but now out of favor. Presidential elections will be held in May, with 32 parties, but major candidates are either extremely conservative or liberal. Sales taxes are very high, about 19%.
We began our tour in Bogota, led by a local guide and our wonderful guide Leon, at the 12 de octubre (called the International Day of the Races in Latin America) market where we tasted so many delicious locally grown fruits.
The region was originally placed under the direct control of the Viceroyalty of Peru. In 1549 Santa Fe de Bogota became the capital of the New Kingdom of Granada (encompassing today's Ecuador, Colombia, Venezuela and Panama), but still subordinate to Peru.
Simon Bolivar (1738-1830), a Venezuelan by birth, is considered the liberator of the entire continent, and became president of a united Gran Colombia in 1821. Peru and Bolivia were liberated in 1824. He advocated a strong, almost monarchical central government, which was rejected by many of his contemporaries. He survived an assassination attempt in which his vice-president was implicated. Bolivar agreed to stand down and to partition Gran Colombia in 1830. He died of TB at age 47. The Republic of Colombia was formed in 1886, with much more complex history before and after!
Colombia, Venezuela, and Ecuador share the same flag, with different emblems in the center, as they were all part of la Gran Colombia.
The Spanish were always looking for El Dorado (fictitious) and of course exploited the indigenous, who created gods (representing the sun) talismen, jewelry, etc. from gold. The jaguar is the sacred symbol of power and strength.
Colombia emeralds are #1 in quality and quantity. Brazil and Zambia are #2 and #3. Bluish green is best. They always have inclusions (pyrites, carbon, calcite, etc.).There are only 4 precious stones: the ruby, diamond, sapphire and emerald. We made some jewelry.
Indigenous selling woven bags and jewelry.
My favorites are always the people and the landscapes. We rode the funicular to the top of Bogota's Monserrate's at above 10,000 feet.
We ate la lechona (rice and pork) and watched chess players
Bogota and other cities are filled with clever graffiti and ordinary tagging. We also played "tejo", the national sport of Colombia, used to settle arguments, altered by the Conquistadors into a game played with metal disks hitting explosives on the target board! It used to be played with gold disks! Leon explains and we all try it.
I enjoyed my fresh trout and plantain lunch
This great family is Circassian, a Russian country that no longer exists
This valley is famous for its wax palms, Colombia's national tree, the second tallest tree (up to 200') in the world after the Sequoia.
Simon Bolivar is portrayed as a nude condor (top half of his body) and faces away from the cathedral, one of the tallest in the world, so he will be less shocking for those exiting the church!
The drive to my favorite city, Medellin, "City of Eternal Spring" was long, with construction and traffic, but magnificent. The Cauca River is second largest in Colombia, and transported drugs and arms to guerrillas living in the mountains. We spotted el Ruiz volcano (no photo) which is active and erupted in 1995, causing an avalanche in which 27,000 disappeared, as they refused to move!
In Medellin we enjoyed interacting with the children at Barefoot Park
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Beautiful new libraries were built in the transformation of Medellin from the most dangerous city in the world in 1991, to one where education and safety are valued. Colombia is great and safe to visit!
We continued on with the cable car through the Arvi National Park on the top of the hill to Santa Elena, where we had lunch with flower grower Nacio Rico Echeverria and his daughter Mariana, who carry on the Basque tradition of Silletero, a 4 division gardeners' competition held every August. Modified chairs, silleteros, are covered in flowers and paraded on their backs.
Our Medellin guide Julian was in Cirque de Soleil, is a part-time architect and part-time tour guide and has stories of survival and success as do many of our other new Colombian friends.
The Getsemani district outside the walls is very interesting
We had a delicious fish lunch at one of many restaurants on the beach
The view of the naval base below from my hotel window
The San Felipe castle-fortress built on San Lazaro Hill, the largest in South America, to defend the main port through which the continent's riches were shipped, against pirate attacks, the most famous of which was Sir Francis Drake who held the city for 100 days in 1586. It was built of volcanic rock in 1657. In 1741 a large force of British and American colonists led by Admiral Edward Vernon, brother of George Washington, who named his home for this man whose troops were defeated in a famous victory for Spain. The statue is of victorious Spanish admiral Don Blas de Lezo, the "Half Man" because he lost a leg, arm and eye. The massively thick walls were built in the 18th century and encompass the old city.
Within the walled city are old wooden colonial homes of the wealthy (distinguished from later buildings) by their balconies; door knockers indicate status: iguana (nobility), lion head (military), fish or mermaid ( merchant), hands (clergy)
Our Cartagena guide Carlos (a former baseball player) and Leon
Each home has a restaurant on the beach side.
In the afternoon we drove to an island, passing oil refineries, to visit the largest bird aviary in Colombia, second largest in South America, and sixth largest in the world, with more than 1,750 birds representing 135 species. Can you identify some? Bonus: lazy iguanas!
The colorful houses, climate, and general ambiance of the Caribbean coast reminded me so much of the DR and the Ecuador tropical coast. I have seen more motorcycles in Colombia than anywhere I've traveled, though. Our last day we got covid tests and had a farewell dinner. We stood for the Colombian national anthem after dinner.