Isla de Pascua (Easter Island) was fabulous!

                                            Isla de Pascua

I finally made to Rapa Nui (Easter Island/Isla de Pascua, called by this name because it was discovered by Europeans on Easter). It is truly amazing: so green and beautiful with blue sky, wild ocean, and so much interesting culture. It is considered the most isolated of islands and was founded over 2000 years ago by Polynesian explorers seeking an island which was not so flat as most. It is thought that the Humboldt current pushed the Polynesian explorers first to s. Chile, they then made their way up the coast to Peru, and then over to the island. There were 3 main volcanoes which erupted millions of years ago. The famous moai statues weigh tons and were probably erected with cables and piles of rocks to climb up. By mid-1800's all had been knocked down in fierce wars between tribes and also by foreigners when the population grew unwieldy (much much larger than today). Moai represented powerful, important ancestors and were carved from a volcanic tuft and sand mixture in one hilly location (Ronu Raraku) with tools made of sharp basalt and lifted onto platforms (ahu); many had pukau (topknots made of hani-hani (red volcanic rock). I've left some of the explanation signage in the photo link if you are interested in more detail. Most of the villages were located on the coast of this small island, with only one real settlement, Hanga Roa with a pop.of about 8,000. The main livelihood is fishing (historically and now, plus tourism. All but one set of moai face inland to protect the tribe. 
I stayed in a hostel, took all my own food, and took excellent tours with lots of hiking and climbing around to maximize my 2+ days. 

pukau (topknot for moai)

Tahai settlement (the moai in front is the only one with coral (restored) eyes which originally all had). This is a beautiful site near Hanga Roa fromwhich many watch the sunset. Each ahu with moai was ceremonial and a sacred burial place (inside the pedestal platform).

Everything has to be imported and thus very expensive except bananas, papaya, pineapple, taro, sweet potatoes and other locally grown crops. There are lots of cows and hoses (brought by the Spanish, of course). This is the view from the hostel, which was very simple but adequate. It was run by a very young couple (Nicole who grew up here and took over from her parents and told me she wanted to move to California, and her husband from Tahiti who is content to stay in Rapa Nui...in the foreground). Most of the guests at Kona Tau were Chilean, though one was a young guy from my daughters neighborhood in Englewood, Colorado.

Caves were used by fishermen and for shelter. Otherwise all slept outside

Akahanga, site of 1st king of the island, Hotu Matu'a (c.680 AD)

Below is where all the moai were carved and somehow transported with logs, cords and lots of muscle to sites allover the island)

2 new Santiago friends Francisca and Eloisa and our wonderfully knowledgeable guide Rosita (back) who went all through   Santa Monica High School in S. California, sponsored by an archaeologist. Her dad is from n. Chile, her mom Rapanui (we met them later that day selling souvenirs on the beach).

First the profile is carved, then the body, head, back side and finally removed from the rock foundation. Most are carved horizontally. Below is only of the few in a sitting or kneeling position and has a beard

Those of us who did not opt for the included lunch walked up to the crater filled with reeds and a little water

As I sat on a rock to eat my sandwich (brought from Santiago) I was attacked by greedy hens, different from the ones who join the dogs every morning to wake us before dawn.

These 15 huge moai on impressive ahu platform.

At the largest (80 tons) and last standing moai (still there in 1830) site, finally destroyed in the tsunami of 1960 (largest recorded earthquake 9.5 in Valdivia, s. Chile). The round rock is magnetic, so used for astronomical/seasons measurements.

Below: the island's only sandy beach, Anakena, has reconstructed moai and warmish water.

Hanga Roa's catholic church has loud bells and a mix of traditional Rapanui symbols (turtle, birdman, etc.) I walked to the lovely cemetery, and when it got dark I got lost and wandered around for about 1 1/2 hours in dimly lit (or not lit at all) streets , knowing approximately where I was, until a local knew my hostel (which I thought I knew how to find!)

The first night I went to an amazing show "Kari Kari" with musicians and dancers who have attended a special school, most since they were very young, to learn and maintain their unique culture, which is a mix of many Polynesian groups.

Saturday, before being dropped off at the airport (see runway below), we visited the most beautiful site: the large Ranu Kau crater filled always to the same level from rainwater. 

The low eroded wall is "KariKari". The cult of the "Birdman" was a very important competition begun in about the 16th c. Each chief selected his top "warrior athlete" who had to scramble down the  1,300' side, swim over to the island below, capture the first egg of "sooty tern," then swim back to the settlement Orongu on the top of the crater. His chief would be proclaimed "Birdman/Tangata Manu". This custom was abolished with the arrival of the slave trade in 1860 and Christian missionaries.

These are native homes with very small doors and were used only for protection in storms and attacks...otherwise people lived outside.

The 4 1/2 hour flight back to Santiago was fine.

Sunday morning I participated in our ward conference choir 

the Iglesias

Rene Ovalle, our bishop

Martin Sorge, our German/Canadian/American/Chilean friend

Yvonne Lamartine, me, Daniela Ferrari
(and all this in just 3 days! Can't get much better!)